GETTING WHAT YOU PAY FOR

Keep in mind the intrinsic qualities of the metals, too. Platinum and silver are harder than gold, which is relatively soft in its purest forms. The purer the gold, the softer it will be and the more apt it is to wear thin or lose its shape with wear.

Rings. Regardless of the kind of setting, check the stone and make sure it is held firmly in the setting, whether the setting is open or closed. A stone such as an opal tends to expand with heat and contract with cold because of its moisture content. That means you want to be sure the stone is held in such a way that it cannot fall out of the setting.

In an open setting such as the high or Tiffany setting and the low or Belcher setting, examine the prongs. They should grip the gem a: the girdle, closing firmly just above it. The prongs should be smooth Remember, the higher the setting, the more stone will be visible, with a greater tendency for the prongs to catch on gloves or clothing. You want to be sure the prongs are made in such a way that there are no rough edges that could catch or that could lead to the prongs being bent or broken and the loss of a stone.

In a closed setting, examine the rim or bezel that holds the gem Some gems or coins may be set just below the rim and may have prongs at the back holding them against the rim. In this case, make sure the prongs are tight and well made to hold the coin or other material in place. As far as gold coins go, make sure the coins a mint perfect, not bent or scratched or damaged by the setting. Gold coins can have a value of their own as long as they are in excellent condition. A damaged coin reduces the value of the ring.

Cabochons are usually set in a closed setting, with the dome higher than the setting. Again, the setting should be made in such be made way that the gem cannot fall out. This is particularly true if the gm, has a tendency to contract or expand. A gem may feel very slightly . loose, but by trying to move it you should be able to feel the firmness of the setting.

The fit of the ring is as important as a well-made setting. A to loose ring may fall off your finger, while a snug one may be difficult to get on and off. Making sure the ring fits in a store is not enough You want to take into account whether your fingers have a tender to swell in warm weather or not. If they do swell, you may want. consider a slightly large ring on which you can have a ring guard put.