ENAMEL

Metal is the basis of enamel jewelry. Enamel has been used since ancient times with metals and especially with gold. Silver enameling is more difficult, although the early Greeks and Romans did make some silver enamelware.

Enamel is basically composed of a vitreous or glass-like compound, usually in combination with lead and sometimes other elements. It may be transparent or opaque, with various pigments being used to give it color. In jewelry, it is baked at high temperatures on or with metals, not only to set it but to fuse it to the metal.

Certain eras are particularly famous for enamel jewelry, particularly the Renaissance and the Art Nouveau periods. The Art Nouveau period, in fact, was a time when interest was high in all things having to do with the Renaissance. Faberge, who had workshops in both Paris and Russia, was famous for his fine gold and enamel jewelry, artfully enlivened with gem flowers and birds. Today, such jewelry can have a worth far beyond its intrinsic value for collectors. The basic kinds of enamel are Champleve. A design is etched or engraved in metal and filled enamel.

Aclosonne. This is a kind of mounted filigree and is the opposite of champleve, in that the enamel is above the backing material. The wire twisted to form a design, which is mounted on a metal w. The wire "cell” forming the design are then filled with Plique-a-/our. A design is made of filigree, and enamel is used to fill cells formed by the wire. Since the filigree is not backed by metal, the result is like stained glass rather than cloisonne.

Basse-Tailfe. A design is formed by embossing or repousse, that design is raised above the surface of the metal. The valleys formed are then filled with enamel, which is ground level with the their after the enamel has been fired or baked. Encruste. Encruste is made the same way as basse-tailie, except enamel is left "rough" and not ground level with the design.